Ghosts From Mississippi: Unearthing the Magnolia State’s Hidden Haunts
Greek Revival-style columns are all that remain of Windsor mansion, a famously historic—and eerie site—in southwest Mississippi. Photo by Virginia Brown
Along with its stately magnolias and sweet, welcoming charm, Mississippi has a surprising hidden, and some say, haunted side. Journey beyond the familiar homes of Elvis Presley, William Faulkner, and Tennessee Williams, to the misty, kudzu-covered backroads, where shadowy figures roam haunted estates, long-dead soldiers frequent centuries-old cemeteries, and abandoned structures lure spirited visitors.
Start your tour in Yazoo City, the gateway to the Delta, at the grave of a long-feared witch who once put a hex on the town. In Vicksburg, take a candlelight paranormal tour of one of the most haunted places in all of Mississippi, then head to Natchez to see a cemetery statue that some say comes to life at night. In between, you’ll find apparition-packed gravesites, one seriously haunted theater, and the site of a legendary deal with the devil.
1. The Witch’s Grave
Massive live oaks tower overhead as you pass the lichen-covered fences that line the entrance to Glenwood Cemetery. This silent, sacred space in Yazoo City, Mississippi, is disturbed only by the rustling of leaves and occasional scuffle of Blue Jays. A rusted metal sign warns: “No one allowed in cemetery dark to dawn.” That’s just as well—this spirited site might manifest an unwelcome encounter.
In the middle of the cemetery’s historic section, a stone marker, a stone marker with a left-pointing arrow guides visitors to the cemetery’s most infamous site: the Witch’s Grave. The legend starts about a century and a half ago with a woman who lived on the banks of the Yazoo River. According to local lore, her witchy custom was to lure fishermen off the water, then torture them. One day, the town sheriff chased her into a swamp, where she succumbed to quicksand, shouting, “I shall return! I’ll break out of my grave and burn down the whole town!”
Twenty years later, in May of 1904, many townspeople had come to believe her proclamation. A devastating fire ravished the city that year, destroying over 200 homes and a hundred businesses. When residents went to visit the cemetery, the chains covering the woman’s grave (as a precautionary measure) had been broken.
Author Willie Morris memorialized the story in his book “Good Old Boy,” which chronicles childhood in Mississippi in the 1950s. Today, costumed characters guide tours through the cemetery, sharing stories of the “witch” and her curse, among other juicy local legends. And while you’re there, you can visit Morris’s grave.
2. The Devil’s Crossroads
The Mississippi Delta is widely hailed as the birthplace of the blues. And Clarksdale, a small town on the west side of the state, stakes claim to one of the most iconic intersections in American folklore: The Blues Crossroads. The story starts with local blues guitarist Robert Johnson, who grew up playing harmonica and guitar, rising through the musical ranks with future legends like Willie Brown and Charlie Parker.
Eventually known for songs like “Me and the Devil Blues” and “Crossroad Blues,” Johnson originally was considered just mediocre at his craft. So he gave up, returned home, and got married. But after a legendary visit to “the Crossroads,” he sold his soul to the devil in exchange for musical genius.
Of course, the story makes for good musical lore. Johnson’s ascent to a spot in the Rock and Roll Hall of Fame as one of the greatest guitarists of all time came from much dedication and study under blues musicians like Ike Zimmerman. Led Zeppelin would go on to cite Johnson as a major influence, and Johnson’s timeless song lives on, including a 1968 rendition by Cream, during which Eric Clapton reimagined Johnson’s licks.
To visit the crossroads, head to the corner of U.S. routes 61 and 49 in Clarksdale. A towering metal monument featuring blue guitars and highway signs lures visitors from all over the world. Local businesses have played into the legendary transaction, too, including the century-old Abe’s Bar-B-Q, which features paintings and murals of Johnson with the devil.
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